Sunday, January 13, 2008

Luang Prabang in depth

I'm currently in stinky, smoggy Bangkok enjoying the concrete after four days in Luang Prabang in Laos. It's only a quick stopover on the way up to Kanchanaburi for two nights to see the Bridge over the River Kwai and Hellfire Pass. We decided to cut short our trip to Laos by three nights to fit this in. I think it will be well worth seeing - the Changi memorial has whet my appetite for more history, particularly an aspect of Australian history that should not be forgotten.

Luang Prabang was pretty neat, and well worth a visit - though try to time your trip outside of the peak season. There were tourists absolutely everywhere, which detracted from the atmosphere as a cultural destination - not enough to spoil it, but enough to be somewhat of a distraction. The air was really hazy as well, which took a bit away from the spectacular mountain scenery - probably the main reason I was keen to move on. Will save the mountains up north for another time. It'll be worth another look in the wet season when the crowds are fewer and the air clearer.

There were a tonne of Aussies in LP, and most of the them really young. I think it was te biggest concentration of young Australians I've seen in one foreign place since Banff. It's good that a stack of young people are putting a cultural destination like LP on their itinerary, though I dare say the trekking and the fact that LP is a transit point between Thailand and Vietnam plays a role. As well as the fact that Vang Viang is only 5 hours away and that place seems like a magnet for backpackers. Am kind of disappointed I missed it - not for the crowds of stoned youngsters watching re-runs of friends, but just to be able to say first hand what the place was like. Certainly the scenery sounds fantastic.

LP was pretty well set up for backpackers, with a lot of open air markets cooking fresh local food (which no doubt explains my present case of Bali Belly, or perhaps more accurately "loose Laos" bowels. Too much information I know - not so bad, just a digestive adjustment... But the food was really good and it was a great way to meet up with other travellers. We met up with this guy from Germany last night, and as part of a discussion on travel mishaps he outlined his misadventure in Australia while hitch-hiking, when he was offered a lift by a gay nudist. Certainly one of the best travel tales I've ever heard!

We had a couple of trips in the general area - one to Pak Ou caves, which is a collection of buddha statues that have been placed into caves next to the Mekong River. The boat trip up the Mekong was probably better than the caves themselves, but it was a good trip. Though cold - I regretted not packing something warm. Amazing how bloody cold it was in the morning, and how hot it was in the late afternoon. Bit like the Aussie outback.

Also had a trip to some local waterfalls where we jumped in for a swim. The waterfalls were beautiful (a bit like Buley Rockholes in the NT for those who have been) though with turquoise water. The water was more than a tad cold, but it was still worth jumping in.

That's about it for now. Will attempt to upload some photos now I'm back in BKK where the net speed should be better.

Hope all is good where-ever you are!

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